Tag Archive: soundproof door

  1. Installing a Soundproof Door

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    Whether at home or work, you may need or desire to soundproof a room.

    Doctors, legal professionals, and business executives, for example, all require speech privacy and confidentiality as well as freedom from external noise which may interrupt their work and conversations. Hotel owners often want to soundproof room doors to provide their guests complete acoustic privacy. Alternatively, if you’re building a home or professional recording studio, you also want an acoustically sealed room.

    Regardless of your purpose, a soundproof door is critical to the complete success of any soundproofing project. If you’ve invested in soundproofing the walls, ceiling, and perhaps, even, the floor of your room, you will likely be disappointed if noise is still being transmitted through a non-soundproofed door.

    A Studio 3D™ Soundproof Interior Door is one of the soundest investments you can make toward achieving the highest quality of soundproofing for your room – with an STC value as high as 56. Our Studio 3D™ soundproof doors are ideal for recording studios, offices, band rooms, hotels, conference rooms, or any other situation for which you require a soundproof interior door.

    Below, you’ll find step-by-step instructions on installing our Studio 3D™ Soundproof Interior Door. You can also view our tutorial on line.

    Installing a Soundproof Door soundproof interior doors thickness

    Your soundproof door assembly is very heavy, so ensure that you have several people (4 to 5) to help safely handle and position it throughout the installation process.

    Materials and Equipment

    Preparing the Door Assembly

    • Lay the door kit on the floor inside the room.
    • Carefully remove the bottom shipping plate.

    Shimming the Hinge Side of the Door Frame

    • Measure and mark the 4 hinge positions on the hinge-side of the door opening.
    • Fasten a shim at the highest hinge mark of the door opening.
    • Use a vertical level to establish a plumb line
    • Fasten the other three shims at the remaining hinge marks.

    Note: It’s critical to install the door jamb along a perfectly plumb frame opening, so double-check that the shims are plumb and level with each other.

    Placing the Door Assembly in the Shimmed Frame

    Note: At this point, the door assembly is fragile and heavy, so move slowly and carefully.

    • Position the door at a right angle to the wall and with the bottom close to the edge of the opening, carefully raise the door assembly and place it into position within the door frame opening.
    • Slide the door assembly into the door opening until the interior door trim frame is flush with the wall.
    • While holding the door jamb assembly against the wall, open the door to a right angle.
    • Carefully shim the door into place – while keeping the jamb flush against the wall.
    • Remove the inside two of the four installed, short hinge screws from the top door frame hinge.
    • Drill deeper pilot holes through the two empty holes.
    • Screw the two long hinge screws (supplied with the kit) into the door frame – maintaining the jamb flush with the wall.
    • Repeat the above process for each of the remaining three hinges.
    • Note the door opening reveal (gap between the door and jamb) and shim the remaining jamb and lintel so that the reveal is evenly spaced around the entire door assembly.
    • Shim behind the three strike plates and replace the short screws with long screws in each of the strike plates.

    Sealing & Trimming the Exterior Door Framesoundproof door

    • Apply blue painter’s tape on the door jamb and lintel to protect them.
    • Insert the backer rod (supplied in the kit) into the gap for the acoustic caulk. (For wider gaps, twist two backer rods together to double its thickness)
    • Apply the acoustic caulking to completely fill and seal the gap. (Note: Ensure the gap is completely filled – leave NO air spaces or gaps.)
    • Place the pre-mitered trim frame over the caulked gap to show an even reveal
    • Attach the trim frame with the screws (supplied in the kit)

    Sealing & Trimming the Interior Door Frame

    • Remove the screws holding the pre-attached trim frame on the other side of the door.
    • Remove the trim frame and carefully place it off to the side.
    • Fill the jamb and lintel gaps (between the door jamb and the wall) with backing rod.
    • Caulk and seal the space using the acoustic sealant (supplied with the kit) – completely fill the gaps.
    • Replace the trim frame over the caulked gap to show an even reveal.
    • Screw the trim frame back into place with the supplied screws.

    Setting Up the Door Handle

    • Place the door handle levers, spindle, and plates on both sides of the door.
    • Screw them into place, being careful not to scratch the powder paint coating/finish.
    • Tighten the door handle with the hexagonal wrench.
    • Check the latches for any binding.

    Note: All 3 latches should work smoothly and in unison when you turn the door handle.

    Adjusting the Threshold, Side, and Top Seals

    • Adjust the bolt on the automatic bottom seal so that it contacts the frame plate to lower the seal completely to the threshold when the door is closed. (You may need to adjust several times until you’ve got it just right.)
    • Adjust the side and top seals to ensure a snug fit with the surface of the door.

    Completing the Exterior Frame Trim

    • Remove the glue strip protective coverings from the pre-mitered door seal trim pieces.
    • First, firmly press the top piece into place.
    • Firmly place the side pieces into place.


    Congratulations! You’ve just installed one of the best soundproof doors available.

  2. How to Install a Door Seal Kit: Soundproofing Doors

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    How to Seal Doors: Blocking External Noise and Ensuring Privacy

    Generally speaking, most of us prefer our private conversations to remain private, but even more importantly, speech privacy and confidentiality is an un-questioned requirement in medical, legal, and business settings – just to name a few.

    Whether for personal or professional discretion, discussions behind closed doors should remain behind closed doors. And as much as we might wish to protect the privacy of our conversations, we also want to keep unwanted noise from intruding on and interfering with our hearing while we’re inside those spaces.

    Simply put: we want to keep unwanted noise outside the room, and we want to keep our own sound inside and private.

    Each and every room or space has its own unique acoustical signature – depending on its layout, dimensions, and the nature of its interior surfaces. For as many different possible room designs, therefore, there are at least as many, if not more, strategies that you could employ in soundproofing and treating them acoustically. A quick and cost-effective place to start is with your doors.

    Soundproofing: Sealing Door Frames

    door seal kitIf you’re on a budget, your best bet is to start by soundproofing your doors. You’d be amazed how much a small gap between a door and its frame can compromise a room’s ability to block sound. According to an article in Forbes, a 1 percent opening in a wall or doorway will reduce the sound blocking effectiveness of that barrier by as much as 50 percent.

    An Acoustic Door Seal Kit is a great way to start soundproofing a room because it seals the air gaps around a solid-core door with a smooth level threshold (the self-leveling bottom seal does not work well with a carpeted threshold). It’s easy to install, highly effective, and very durable.

    Installing Your Acoustical Surfaces Door Seal Kit

    Equipment you’ll need:

  3. Measuring tape
  4. Right angle
  5. Marking pencil
  6. Power miter saw with a sharp, carbide-tip saw blade
  7. Screw driver with standard variety of headsSafety glasses
    Ensure that you always wear safety glasses when cutting the door seal pieces because cut ends or particles can fly in the cutting process – so protect your eyes!

    Always keep your hands and fingers well clear of the blade when you are cutting the door seal pieces.

    1. Measuring the vertical height of the door frame

    You need to accurately measure the door frame before cutting the seals. A good rule of thumb is to “measure twice, cut once.” It’s helpful to note these measurements as you progress – whatever works best to ensure that you get the right measurements and don’t accidentally waste materials should you make a mistake once you start cutting.

    i. Measure the height of the hinge-side door stop (the part of the frame that the door stops against inside the jamb) from the threshold up to the inside edge of the upper door stop.

    ii. Measure the height of the latch-side door stop from the threshold up to the inside edge of the upper door stop.

    2. Cutting the vertical door seal pieces

    i. Measure the hinge-side door stop seal on the aluminum channel, i.e. not on the rubber gasket.

    ii. Mark a perpendicular/90° cutting line on the channel, and set the rubber seal side against the saw back-stop.

    iii. With the saw blade set for 90°, carefully cut the piece.

    iv. Repeat Steps i-iii for the latch-side door stop piece.

    Now that you have cut your two vertical door seal pieces, install them.

    3. Installing the vertical door seals

    i. First, install the hinge-side, vertical door seal.

    ii. Pull any extra rubber on the non-cut end back into the channel so that none is left hanging over the end.

    iii. Place the hinge-side door seal, with the cut edge down and the rubber gasket facing the door.Check for fit: ensure the rubber gasket meets the surface of the door when it is closed, but make sure that it doesn’t interfere with the door’s ability to open and close without binding.

    iv. Drill and screw the center mounting hole into the door stop first, then drill and screw the remaining holes.

    v. Repeat Steps i-iv on the latch-side, vertical door stop.

    4. Installing the top/horizontal door seal

    door seal kit
    i. Accurately measure the width between the vertical door seals at the top of the door, and cut the next piece of door seal to those measurements
    (see Section 1., “Cutting the vertical door seal pieces”)

    ii. Place the top/horizontal seal piece into position at the top of the door, with the rubber gasket facing the door. It should fit tightly into place within the vertical door seals.

    iii. Screw and drill the center screw hole first, then drill and screw the remaining holes.

    5. Adjusting the Vertical and Top Door Seal Gaskets

    i. Place a sheet of paper between the top surface of the door and the upper door seal gasket at various places between the seal and the door to determine where the seal needs to be tightened.If the seal is good, the paper should be held in place by the seal.If the seal is not snug enough, the gasket needs to be adjusted so that it makes better contact with the surface of the door.

    ii. Turn the gasket adjusting screws clockwise to move the gasket closer toward the surface of the door.

    iii. Continue until all the seals are lightly seated against the door, with no binding when opened and closed.

    If you complete the above steps correctly, a sheet of paper should be held in place when placed between the door and the seal.

    6. Installing the Automatic Threshold Seal

    Finally, attach the automatic self-leveling threshold seal directly to the face of your solid-core door. Please note: Door threshold seals are not designed to seal directly on carpet. For best results threshold seals should seat onto a solid surface. The solid surface should be positioned above the level of the floor covering on either side of the door.
    i. With the door closed, measure the distance between the insides of the two vertical door jamb seals at the bottom of the door.

    ii. Measure and mark the cutting line on the end of the threshold piece seal away from the “actuator screw” end and place the aluminum channel side against the saw back stop.

    iii. Gently pull back the rubber gasket material from the aluminum frame at the end to be cut (away from the adjustment screw) so the saw will cut ONLY the aluminum material (do NOT cut the rubber with the miter saw!).

    iv. Cut the threshold piece on your miter saw.

    Be careful to keep holding the rubber gasket away from the saw blade.

    v. Push the rubber gasket straight back into the threshold seal inner channel, then with a pair of sharp scissors, trim the rubber gasket to leave an overhang of 1/8” beyond the channel on both ends of the piece – ensuring to keep the cuts clean, straight, and at precise 90° angles.

    vi. The bottom seal must clear the floor covering – i.e. carpet, tile etc. – but NOT by more than 3/8” when the door is opened.

    Note: the actual door threshold must be solid, smooth, straight, (as with aluminum or wood, for example),and nearly level (the threshold seal will self-level onto the threshold by up to +/- 3/8”), so use appropriate height spacers on the floor when you place the threshold door seal. A carpeted or other irregular threshold will not work.

    vii. Place the bottom seal on top of the spacers – with the actuator screw towards the hinge-side of the door – and check that it fits snugly.

    viii. Screw and drill the center hole to the door first, then drill and screw the remaining holes.Note: Be careful NOT to tighten the mounting screws too much – if they are too tight, the automatic gasket will not drop or self-level correctly.

    Adjusting the Automatic Threshold Seal

    i. Adjust the actuator screw so that the gasket drops completely to the threshold when the door is closed. (Maximum gasket drop = ¾”)

    You can use a strong light source behind the door when checking your threshold adjustments. If no light shows through, you’ve sealed the threshold from sound as well.


    When properly installed, the Door Seal Kit will effectively seal the gaps around your door.

    For more information and a wealth of resources, please visit https://www.acousticalsurfaces.com/.

  9. What You Need to Know About Acoustics

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    Do you ever find yourself at your office, at a busy downtown intersection, in an industrial plant, a restaurant or a studio, or simply in your home, and you’re unhappy because unwanted noise is interfering in your life?

    If so, you’re far from being alone. Noise pollution comes in many different forms and under many different circumstances. It has emerged as a leading environmental problem.

    The World Health Organization has noted that noise is an underestimated threat to both short- and long-term health problems, such as sleep disturbance, cardiovascular problems, decreased professional and academic productivity, and hearing loss – to name just a few.

    Besides personal comfort considerations, noise pollution and acoustic environments are becoming increasingly important concerns in industrialized and metropolitan centers.

    Regardless of the context or the severity, if you’re dealing with an acoustical problem in your home, you’ll benefit from a little bit of a primer in general acoustics, soundproofing, and acoustical treatments.

    When you understand the nature and source(s) of your particular acoustical problems, you’ll also be better equipped to make informed and cost-effective decisions for your budget.

    The Absolute Basics: Soundproofing vs. Acoustical Treatments

    When you first step into the world of acoustics, you immediately encounter the terms, “soundproofing” and “acoustical treatments”. Because they’re very distinct concepts, it’s important to clearly grasp the distinction between them since it’s not uncommon to confuse or equate the two concepts at first glance.

    Soundproofing is about keeping external noise outside and keeping internal noise inside. Acoustical treatment, on the other hand, is about molding the quality of the sound inside a space.

    Here it is in its simplest form:

    Soundproofing = Less noise

    Acoustical treatments = Better sound

    Soundproofing Essentials

    Climate Seal in Residential Triple Wide Double Hung WindowSoundproofing blocks sound from entering or leaving a space. It’s very much like the weatherproofing that keeps weather outside your house and heating and cooling inside your house. You have to seal every nook and cranny to achieve the highest thermal efficiency by keeping the two environments totally isolated from each other.

    Soundproofing is just the same: you need to keep external noise outside and keep sound inside.

    As with thermal insulation, the system is only as strong as its weakest link. Even the highest R rating, insulation won’t stop the heat from—literally—going right out the windows and doors if you don’t seal all the leaks around them and their frames – not to mention the walls, floors, and ceilings.

    Similarly, with soundproofing, you can put all the sound panels you want on the walls, but they really won’t do you much good if you don’t seal the gaps in the window and door frames, as well as the ceiling and floor junctions, electrical and lighting outlets, and heating and ventilation systems.

    Sound is just like air or water: if there’s a way to get through something, it will, so you have to totally seal and isolate the inside environment from the outside and vice versa.

    Believe it or not, a 1 percent opening in a wall or doorway will reduce the sound blocking effectiveness of that barrier by as much as 50 percent!

    Some Sound Leaks Are Easy Fixes: Doors and Windows

    Using our Door Seal Kit is the simplest way to begin soundproofing your space. It’s easy to install (there’s a video for that), and it offers a truly effective solution at a great price. And, for the highest quality of sound-blocking performance, our Studio 3D™ Soundproof Interior Doors are rated up to STC 56 and we can customize them to any size specification.

    For external windows, you can use our Climate Seal™ Acoustic Series Window Inserts which block sound across all frequency levels. They look great, and they reduce sound by up to 60% from pre-existing levels. For internal windows, you can also install our soundproof interior windows to ensure that no noise will leak in or out.

    But What About Lightweight Walls and Thin Floors?

    As discussed above, soundproofing means maximizing isolation by sealing all the gaps, but it also involves increasing the mass and density of the walls, floors, and ceilings. The thicker and denser they are, the less sound will be able to penetrate them.

    Internal walls often share studs and transmit sound easily, but various approaches exist to deal with this. You can de-couple walls or double-up drywall layers with a low frequency blocking material like Green Glue. This serves to both increase walls’ density and isolate them from adjacent spaces.

    There are also many ways to soundproof floors which typically employ an underlay with sound absorbing qualities, such as our ACOUSTIK™ Sound Deadening Floor Underlay. Alternatively, our DURACOUSTIC S.T.O.P.™ Floor Impact Noise Reduction Underlayment offers a cost-effective solution which reduces impact and airborne floor noise and can be used with a variety of floor finishes.

    Acoustical Treatment Essentials: Balancing Absorbers and Diffusers

    Acoustical room treatments aim to improve sound quality within a given space by controlling the way sound is reflected, absorbed, and diffused by the interior surfaces.

    If you will, imagine that sound is like an infinite number of really small rubber balls. If they were to all get simultaneously pelted in every direction at the highly reflective interior surfaces of a room, well, to put it mildly, all hell would break loose.

    So we need to turn hard, flat surfaces like walls and ceilings into sponges that can absorb some of the sound energy, but we can also add curved diffusers that alter the surface of walls or ceilings. This helps to scatter sound, thereby reducing echo, while still retaining some of the natural reflections that we use to make sense of our spacial positions.

    It’s really about finding the right balance between absorption and diffusion. Overdoing the absorption can lead to a dead-sounding space, but not having enough can result in too much reverberation and unwanted echo.

    Absorber Panels for Walls

    Fabric-Wrapped Panel Install Still FrameNOISE S.T.O.P. FABRISORB™ fabric-wrapped wall panels are affordable fiberglass sound absorbers that deliver high performance at an affordable cost. They’re easy to work with, and you can install them on nearly any wall surface to provide reduced echo and reverberation. They come in many color and size combinations and do a great job of taming overly-reflective rooms.

    CFAB Cellulose Sound Absorber Panels are also very cost-effective, offering great performance at a low price. They control and deaden noise, reduce airborne sound transmission from surface reflections. They have a Class A Fire Rating, they’re easy to install, and they resist mold growth.

    Sound Silencer™ acoustical sound panels are also Class A fire rated with STC and NRC ratings alike. They’re non-fibrous and resistant to moisture, impact, fungi, and bacteria. These panels provide high-performance sound blocking and absorption, so they’re another fantastic option for you to consider.

    Ceiling Treatments

    Hybrid materials like Noise S.T.O.P.™ Sound Barrier Acoustical Ceiling Tiles combine soundproofing and acoustical treatment properties in one product. They incorporate a noise barrier on the back of the tile to help block sound, as well as sound absorption on the front that helps to mitigate echo and reverberation. You can also use Envirocoustic™ Wood Wool Ceiling Tiles which help to reduce echo and reverberation by absorbing sound


    It’s really about finding the right balance between absorption and diffusion. Overdoing the absorption can lead to a dead sounding space, but not having enough can result in too much reverberation and unwanted echo.

    For as many different spaces and acoustical challenges as there are, just about as many different strategies exist to contend with them. The size, layout, proportion, and nature of the surfaces of a room determine its acoustical qualities, whether good or bad, but the same principles always apply in acoustical treatments. And striking the right balance between absorption and diffusion is the key.

    For more information and a wealth of resources, please visit https://www.acousticalsurfaces.com/.